Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always defined its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their children are unwilling to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to discover these narratives and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
